Person: GÜRARDA, AYÇA
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GÜRARDA
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AYÇA
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Publication Investigation of stretch properties of different stitch types in garments made of elastane woven fabrics(Ege Üniversitesi, 2021-01-01) Geleri, Kıvanç; Gürarda, Ayça; Ceven, Erhan Kenan; Geleri, Kıvanç; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; ÇEVEN, ERHAN KENAN; Mühendislik Fakültesi; Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü; 0000-0003-3283-4117; 0000-0002-7317-8163; 0000-0003-4425-7396; AAG-4653-2019; JCN-9927-2023; EVH-7504-2022In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of fabric with elastane is able to stretch by about 10-30% and recovery immediately after release. In the apparel industry, sewing should not prevent the fabric from stretching in the garments made from woven fabrics with elastane. The elasticity of the seams of the garments consisting of elastic fabrics is very important. In this study, it is aimed to examine the stretch and permanent elongation properties of different stitch types of garments made of elastane woven fabrics. For this purpose, 5 different stitch types were selected as lockstitch, zig zag stitch, two thread chain stitch, three thread overlock stitch and five thread overlock stitch, and these stitches were sewn at different stitch densities (3 - 4 and 5 stitches / cm), with different sewing threads (spun polyester, core spun (poly / poly), nylon and elastic sewing thread) with different ticket numbers (80 and 120). The stretch and permanent elongation values of the sewn fabric samples were examined.Publication Development of fully biodegradable fusible interlinings for eco-friendly garments and investigation of their performance on a shirt(Wiley, 2023-03-22) Seyidzade, Lale; Kanık, Mehmet; KANIK, MEHMET; Gurarda, Ayca; MANASOĞLU, GİZEM; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Mühendislik Fakültesi; Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü; 0000-0002-1504-8694; JTS-3559-2023Interlining is a very important accessory in the garment industry and is used between two layers of fabric in the garment to support the appearance and stance of the garment. In fusible interlinings, petroleum-based synthetic materials such as polyamide, polyester, high-density polyethylene (HDPE), low-density polyethylene (LDPE), and various copolymers are used as the bonding material. Since these polymers do not degrade over time in nature, they do not support environmentally friendly production. This study aimed to produce fully biodegradable (100%) fusible interlinings by using environmentally friendly biodegradable polymers instead of traditional ones and thus develop eco-friendly garment with their help. Firstly, fusible interlinings were produced by coating three different polymers, one conventional (HDPE) and the other two biodegradable (PLA and PCL) on the cotton base fabric by knife coating technique. In the second stage, these fusible interlinings were applied to a 100% cotton shirting fabric, and their performance and biodegradability tests were performed. According to the results, it was revealed that these interlinings could be used in the production of completely biodegradable clothes.Publication Investigation of the effect of cotton knitted fabric structure of baby wear on moisture management properties(Inst Natl Cercetare-dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-bucuresti, 2019-01-01) Biltekin, Serap; Gürarda, Ayça; Biltekin, Serap; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü; Metin Mühendisliği Bölümü; CGP-3069-2022; EYG-7397-2022In recent years, baby clothing has become an important role in the garment sector. The increasing importance of baby clothing, along with the new designs, different fabric structures, accessories and clothing comfort is required to develop. Due to the increasing importance given to baby health in the world, babywears have to be manufactured from materials that are not harmful to health in accordance with the standards.The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of cotton knitted fabrics structure of babywear on moisture management properties. For this reason, moisture management properties (wetting time, absorption rate, spreading speed, accumulative one-way transport capability (OWTC) and overall moisture management capability (OMMC)) of cotton knitted fabrics of different structures which are widely used in babywear have been examined. Moisture management tester was used for liquid transport of the knitted fabric samples.As a result of the study. it is observed that single jersey fabric had higher OMMC values than these of interlock and 1x1 rib knitted fabrics. Regarding the effect of yarn thickness, liquid transport increased with decreasing yam thickness in general. Regarding the effect of fabric weight and fabric thickness, liquid transport decreased with increasing weight and thickness in general. Negative correlations were observed between fabric weight, fabric thickness and overall moisture management capabilityPublication Investigation of the effects of different bias angles of stitching on seam performance of wool suits(Walter de Gruyter, 2019-12-01) Öztaş, Hande; Gürarda, Ayça; Öztaş, Hande; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü; Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü; JIF-8505-2023; CTB-5944-2022Wool suits are always preferred due to their warmth retention in cool weather, comfort, and aesthetic features. Seams are very important for the quality of wool suits. The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric change with the change of fabric bias angle. This study aimed to investigate the effects of different seam angles with various stitch densities on the seam strength and the seam breaking extension of wool suit stitches. In this study, seam strength and seam-breaking elongation at different bias angles were investigated for the stitches of trousers and jackets of wool suits. As is known, in the production of trousers and jackets, the seams are applied not only in the direction of the weft and warp but also in the different bias angles at the crotch area and arm hole seams. Six wool fabrics with different structural properties were chosen as experimental samples. Fabrics were cut at 0 degrees, 30 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees, and 90 degrees angles and then sewn with three different stitch densities (3, 4, and 5 stitches/cm ), with lockstitch stitch type for each fabric angle. Therefore, 90 differently seamed fabric samples were prepared. The results indicated that seams prepared with 0 degrees,45 degrees and 90 degrees bias angles give the highest seam strength and that 30 degrees, 45 degrees, and 60 degrees bias angles give the highest seam-breaking elongation values all over the samples. Seams prepared with 30 degrees and 60 degrees bias angles give the lowest seam strength, and 0 degrees and 90 degrees bias angles give the lowest seam-breaking elongation values all over the samples.Publication Investigation of the comfort properties of traditional woven fabrics with different structural parameters(Inst Natl Cercetare-dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-bucuresti, 2020-01-01) Günaydin, Gizem Karakan; Akgün, Mine; AKGÜN, MİNE; Gürarda, Ayca; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Çeven, Erhan Kenan; ÇEVEN, ERHAN KENAN; Mühendislik Fakültesi; Tekstil Ana Bilim Dalı; 0000-0003-3283-4117; AAG-4653-2019; AAG-9756-2021Turkish traditional Buldan weavings are known as special fabrics in terms of providing comfortable clothes which are known to be natural and healthy in Denizli. Turkey. The research presented in this paper assesses the effects of different fabric structural parameters of Buldan fabrics on comfort properties such as thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity. water vapour permeability and air permeability. Five different Buldan fabrics woven with different fabric structural parameters were produced. According to test results, cotton/Tencel Buldan fabrics indicated similar comfort properties with the 100% cotton Buldan fabric properties. Additionally the lowest thermal absorptivity was observed from 100% cotton Buldan fabrics which give the warmth feeling among the evaluated samples.Publication A research on effect of surface treatment conditions on flammability and water repellency properties of drapery fabrics produced from micro polyester yarns(Taylor & Francis, 2020-03-05) Gunaydin, Gizem Karakan; Ceven, Erhan Kenan; ÇEVEN, ERHAN KENAN; Gurarda, Ayca; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Akgun, Mine; AKGÜN, MİNE; Mühendislik Fakültesi; Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü; 0000-0003-3283-4117; AAG-4653-2019; AAG-9756-2021Flame retardancy and water repellency are frequently applied finishing processes for drapery fabrics. These two treatments should require special attention when they are applied consecutively. This research aims to investigate the effect of sequential finishing processes by utilizing of different flame retardant chemical ratio (0, 60 and 90 g/l) and fluorocarbon based water repelling substance ratio (0, 10 and 30 g/l) on hydrophobic, flammability, air permeability and stiffness properties of the drapery fabrics. According to the results of statistical analyses, it was determined that fabric burning behaviour, air permeability and stiffness properties were significantly influenced from the process types with different finishing substance ratios and from the weft yarn density as well as from the interaction of process type and weft yarn density at 0.05 significance level. Additionally, process type was a significant factor on water repellency of drapery samples however weft yarn density and the interaction of weft yarn density and the process type were not influential factors on water repellency at significance level of 0.05. For both warp and weft fabric directions, lowest damage zone at the length and width with the ignition source was obtained from the samples which were only treated with flame retardancy process without water repellency (90-0 coded process). The most satisfying results in terms of water repellency were obtained from the samples treated with 60-30 coded process where 60 g/l FR and 30 g/l water repellent chemical substances were utilized respectively. Drapery fabrics treated with 60-0 coded process revealed the best windproof feature indicating the lowest air permeability.Publication Peel resistance and stiffness of woven fabric with fusible interlinings(Inst Natl Cercetare-dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-bucuresti, 2019-01-01) Gurarda, Ayca; GÜRARDA, AYÇA; Kanık, Mehmet; KANIK, MEHMET; Çalışkan, Naime; Mühendislik Fakültesi; JTS-3559-2023Interlining is a layer of fabric placed between the garment fabrics to form and enhance the stiffness of the garment. The fusible interlining can be bonded to the fabric at a specific temperature, time and pressure. These parameters are very important for the peel resistance and stiffness of the fabric with fusible interlining.In this study, cotton woven face fabric and three different fusible interlinings(plain, twill and nonwoven fusible interlining) were chosen as experimental samples. Different fusing temperatures between 130 degrees C and 170 degrees C and different fusing times (5-10 and 15 sec) selected for fusing of the interlinings to the fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of fusing temperature and time on peel resistance and stiffness of fabric with fusible interlinings. Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabric withcotton plain fusible interlining increased with increase fusing temperature and fusing time. Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabric withpolyester twill fusible interlining increased with increase fusing temperature and decrease fusing time. Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabric with polyamide nonwoven fusible interlining increased with increase fusing temperature until 140 degrees C and increase fusing time until 10 sec. Results indicated that the peel resistance between the cotton plain and polyester twill fusible interlining andface fabric increased with increase fusing temperature and fusing time.